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FOOD & DRINK

Ask an Italian: ‘How do I sauce pasta properly?’

Cooking pasta and sauce sounds simple enough - how could you go wrong? You might be surprised.

Ask an Italian: 'How do I sauce pasta properly?'
Photo: Roberto Serra/Eatalian with Roberto

If you want your pasta dish to taste as good as those served in your favourite restaurants in Italy, then there are some tips and tricks to be aware of.

You probably already know that your pasta should be cooked al dente, but mistakes are often made when adding the sauce.

READ ALSO: The common Italian food myths you need to stop believing

“Saucing pasta is not a hard task, but it requires knowing some mandatory steps, and the things to be avoided,” says Italian food writer Roberto Serra.

“It is something that most Italians can do quite well since it’s part of our culture, but of course pasta is not a worldwide thing.”

If you’re keen to do things the authentic way, here Roberto shares his advice for saucing your pasta as it would be done in Italy.

Get the sauce ready first

“The first thing you have to do right: get the sauce ready before the pasta is. This is important, because pasta does not like to wait! 

With a few exceptions, like cacio e pepe or carbonara, which are express preparations, the sauce can be prepared in advance. 

I actually recommend stocking up on some sauces in the freezer, for last minute Italian dinners: bolognese ragù and pesto genovese are perfect for this.”

Pesto genovese. Photo: Caroline Attwood/Unsplash

Cook the pasta al dente

“Many people may ask: what do you mean by al dente (literally: “to the tooth”)? There’s an easy answer, and a more advanced one.

The easy answer is: just read the instructions on the pasta packaging, they always tell you how many minutes are required to cook it properly. My advice is to remove the pasta from water two minutes earlier than the packaging instructions say.

READ ALSO: The ten ‘unbreakable’ rules for making real Italian pasta alla carbonara

The more complicated answer is: when you get skilled enough, you’ll just taste the pasta and you’ll know when it’s not undercooked but actually al dente and needs to be removed from the water. My advice is to use the previous method and train yourself to taste the pasta when you remove it, so that you’ll soon be able to just taste it – like Italians do 

Why is it important to cook the pasta al dente? Because this allows you to execute the next steps properly and get perfect pasta.”

In the pan

“The easiest way to move the pasta from the pot to the pan is with a colander. I use it to drain the pasta water, but only after having saved a mug of it. 

Pasta water is rich in starch, and this is an incredible asset for all your pasta recipes.

When the pasta is in the colander, drop it into the pan where you have prepared the sauce. 

It is very important that you don’t rinse the pasta with tap water! This is something that I have read in forums, but it is definitely a mistake, since it will wash away the starch from the pasta’s surface. The starch is your best ally to make the sauce cling to the pasta.

When the pasta is in the pan, mix it with the sauce. Now you need a few minutes until the pasta is completely cooked and the sauce correctly sticks to it. 

Consider that if you stopped boiling the pasta two minutes earlier than expected, it will take about 4-5 minutes in the pan. 

During this time, you slowly add the amount of pasta water that is required to make it gently cook. The heat should be medium-high.

Add pasta water and olive oil (not cream)

“Another trick is to add some fat, usually extra-virgin olive oil (EVO), so that starch combines (emulsifies) with it, and the sauce will cling perfectly to the pasta. 

This tip is super important when the sauce is a very low-fat one, e.g. a simple tomato and basil.

It is also very important when the sauce is veggie-based or with large chops of fish or prawns, since it is the proper way to create an emulsion that will make the pasta stick. 

Pasta alla gricia. Photo: Luca Nebuloni/Wikimedia Commons

Another typical mistake seen in inauthentic Italian food is the use of milk cream (aka heavy cream). 

Apart from a few recipes in which cream is a key component (e.g. penne alla vodka, or tortellini alla panna), it is usually an easy and quick trick to create a thick sauce, but the taste of the ingredients will be flattened by the cream. This is definitely not Italian.

Add cheese and herbs (only when needed)

“Now remove the pan from the heat and add some grated cheese, when the sauce requires it. 

There are some general rules to this:

  • never use cheese in recipes with fish or shellfish – vongole, cozze, gamberi… these never need cheese, no matter which kind.
  • tomato sauce – there is not 100% agreement on this, but I strongly recommend not using cheese with simple tomato sauces
  • bolognese sauce, tortellini – yes, definitely! And, of course, Parmigiano Reggiano here
  • carbonara, amatriciana, gricia, cacio e pepe – yes, use pecorino here!
  • always remember that Italian food is strongly regional. If you don’t know which cheese to add, use Parmigiano Reggiano for recipes from northern Italy, pecorino for central Italy (e.g. Rome, Tuscany), ricotta salata (an aged variant, perfect to be grated, of fresh ricotta cheese) for southern Italy.

READ ALSO: ‘What’s the difference between Italy’s Parmigiano Reggiano and parmesan cheese?’

“Finally, serve your pasta and add some fresh herbs on top. Here my recommendation is: in Italy a lot of pasta dishes are never served with herbs on top, while abroad parsley and basil are everywhere. 

Please consider that:

  • basil is usually added to tomato sauce
  • parsley is often used with fish or shellfish sauce
  • you will never see lasagne, tortellini, bolognese ragù with herbs on top

“Of course, some recipes will not follow these rules, but these are the best practices that apply to most sauces – from a simple tomato and basil sauce to a complex fish and shellfish sauce like shrimp and tuna pasta.”

Read more about authentic Italian cuisne on Roberto’s blog, Eatalian with Roberto.

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FOOD & DRINK

From spritz to shakerato: Six things to drink in Italy this summer

Summer in Italy means lots of things - trips to the beach, empty cities, strikes, and metro works - but it also ushers in the spritz and negroni season. Here are some of the best drinks to cool down with in Italy this summer.

From spritz to shakerato: Six things to drink in Italy this summer

Spritz

Venice wins all the prizes for being the home of the spritz: the jewel in Italy’s summertime daisy crown and one of the country’s most popular exports.

To first-time customers, the sweet-and-bitter combo can taste unpleasantly like a poisoned alcopop. Stick with it, however, and you’ll soon learn to appreciate this sunset-coloured aperitif, which has come to feel synonymous with summer in Italy.

The most common version is the bright orange Aperol Spritz, but if this starts to feel too sweet once your tastebuds adjust then you can graduate to the dark red Campari Spritz, which has a deeper and more complex flavour profile.

What are the best summer drinks to order in Italy?

Photo by Federica Ariemma/Unsplash.

Negroni

If you’re too cool for the unabashedly flamboyant spritz but want something not too far off flavour-wise, consider the Negroni.

It’s equal parts gin, vermouth and Campari – though if you want a more approachable version, you can order a ‘Negroni sbagliato’ – literally a ‘wrong’ Negroni – which replaces the gin with sweet sparkling Prosecco white wine.

Served with a twist of orange peel and in a low glass, the Negroni closely resembles an Old Fashioned, and is equally as stylish. A traditional Negroni may be stirred, not shaken, but it’s still the kind of cocktail that Bond would surely be happy to be seen sipping.

Crodino

Don’t fancy any alcohol but still crave that bitter, amaro-based aftertaste?

A crodino might be just what you’re after. With its bright orange hue, it both looks and tastes very similar to an Aperol Spritz – so much so that you might initially ask yourself whether you’ve in fact been served the real thing.

Similar in flavour are soft drinks produced by the San Pellegrino brand; bars that don’t have any crodino on hand will often offer you ‘un San Pellegrino’ as a substitute. These drinks are usually available in multiple flavours like blood orange, grapefruit, or prickly pears.

A barman prepares a Campari Spritz cocktail in the historic Campari bar at the entrance of Milan’s Galleria Vittorio Emanuel II shopping mall. Photo by MIGUEL MEDINA / AFP

Chinotto

Much like the crodino, the chinotto is another distinctive bitter Italian aperitivo drink.

With its medium-dark brown colouring, however, the chinotto bears more of a resemblance to Coca Cola than to the spritz, leading to its occasionally being designated as the ‘Italian Coca Cola’.

In reality far less caramelly and much more tart than coke, the chinotto has its detractors, and the fact that we’re having to describe its flavour here means it clearly hasn’t set the world alight since it was first invented in the 1930s (it was subsequently popularised by San Pellegrino, which became its main Italian producer).

If you’re looking for another grown-up tasting alternative to an alcoholic aperitivo, however, the chinotto might just be the place to look.

Bellini

What’s not to love about the bellini?

Its delicate orange and rose-pink tones are reminiscent of a sunset in the same way as a spritz, but with none of the spritz’s complex and contradictory flavours.

A combination of pureed peach and sugary Prosecco wine, the bellini’s thick, creamy texture can almost make it feel smoothie or even dessert-like. It’s a sweet and simple delight, with just a slight kick in the tail to remind you it’s not a soft drink.

Shakerato

Not a fan of drinks of the fruity/citrusy/marinated herby variety?

If caffeine’s more your thing, Italy has an answer for you in the caffe shakerato: an iced coffee drink made with espresso, ice cubes, and sugar or sugar syrup.

That might not sound inspired at first, but hear us out: the three ingredients are vigorously mixed together in a cocktail shaker before the liquid is poured (ice cube-free) into a martini glass, leaving a dark elixir with a delicate caramel coloured foam on top.

You couldn’t look much more elegant drinking an iced coffee than sipping one of these.

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