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La Bella Vita: How to do the Italian cheek kiss and Italy's deepest rivalries

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La Bella Vita: How to do the Italian cheek kiss and Italy's deepest rivalries
Far from being just a horse race, the iconic Palio di Siena is a vibrant celebration of the age-old rivalry between Siena's 17 city districts. Photo by GIUSEPPE CACACE / AFP

From the unwritten rules regulating Italians' trademark greeting to some of the fiercest rivalries going on in the country, our weekly newsletter La Bella Vita offers you an essential starting point for eating, talking, drinking and living like an Italian.

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La Bella Vita is our regular look at the real culture of Italy – from language to cuisine, manners to art. This newsletter is published weekly and you can receive it directly to your inbox: go to newsletter preferences in 'My Account' or follow the instructions in the newsletter box below.

From how to order your coffee to which pasta shapes to pair with which sauce, to hand gestures and usage of tu and Lei, Italy has no shortage of unwritten rules.

And falling foul of these rules, especially as a foreign national, can occasionally result in slightly awkward situations involving moderately befuddled locals.

Among a plethora of etiquette protocols, the double cheek kiss – Italians' trademark greeting – is one of those with the highest potential for embarrassment as newcomers are faced with the 'to kiss or not to kiss' dilemma each time they meet someone new.

So, to clear up at least some doubts on the topic, here's some essential info on the Italian cheek kiss, including when to do it and how.

Here's how to do the Italian cheek kiss

Italy is a country of romance, even more so onscreen as Italian cinema has over the decades gifted international audiences with a long list of critically acclaimed films about love.

Federico Fellini

The Dolce Vita by Federico Fellini (pictured) is largely considered one of the best films of all time. Photo by AFP

So, we have selected some of the best romantic Italian films of all time to give you some inspiration for your next movie night. 

11 of the best romantic Italian films of all time

While the north v south divide (and the numerous stereotypes associated with it) may be known well beyond national borders, Italy is home to many more fierce and long-lived rivalries. 

And you may be surprised to know that one is all about the popular tiramisù dessert. 

From football to tiramisu: A look at Italy's deepest rivalries

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Finally, visitors often balk at the sight of Italy's coperto charge on their restaurant bills and complaints about the fee abound on social media. 

But what is the coperto charge really about and what does Italian law say about it?

'A rip-off': Should you really get mad about Italy’s table charge? 

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Is there an aspect of the Italian way of life you'd like to see us write more about? Please email me at [email protected].

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