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TOURISM

Venice authorities open inquiry into €1,100 restaurant bill for tourists

Venice's mayor and police chief have promised action after a group of four tourists said they were charged €1,100 for a meal of four steaks, grilled fish, and water.

Venice authorities open inquiry into €1,100 restaurant bill for tourists
Gondoliers row down Venice's canals. Photo: Quasarphotos/Depositphotos

It's the latest in a string of incidents of tourists in Italy being overcharged for food, and made headlines across the world after the residents' organization Gruppo 25 Aprile shared the customers' story. 

The four Japanese customers, who were studying at university in Bologna, filed a complaint with police about their meal near the iconic St Mark's Square.

“We defend local residents, and whoever puts the good name of Venice at risk harms all Venetians,” said the Gruppo 25 Aprile in a tweet. The organization also said it planned to publish a handbook on 'surviving Venice' ahead of the annual carnival which starts on Sunday.

The restaurant owner on the other hand told local daily Venezia Today he “did not remember having any problems with any Japanese clients”.

Venice is a pricey city at the best of times, but tension between local business-owners and the steadily increasing number of visitors has contributed to some ill-feeling towards tourists. 

In November 2017, a British family complained about a €500 bill for lunch near St Mark's Square, with one of the party saying waiters had taken advantage of their lack of Italian skills to bring them expensive dishes they did not order. That came shortly after a Japanese couple was charged €120 for a plate of lobster at a central Venice trattoria, though they were able to get the bill reduced by 40 percent, with the help of another customer.

At the time, Venice mayor Luigi Brugnaro branded the group “cheapskates” and said: “I applaud the restauranteur who issued the bill. If you come to Venice, you should know that you're Venice, you have to spend some money. In fact, leave a tip for all the people who are there working for you.”

However, after the most recent incident was reported around the world, Brugnaro said that if the “shameful episode” was confirmed to be true, city authorities would punish those responsible.

In July last year, The Local spoke to two local residents who had set up an online portal, Authentic Venice, aiming to offer tourists a genuine experience and avoid being overcharged by promoting local businesses.

READ MORE: 'Tourism is killing Venice, but it's also the key to survival'

It's not only the northern lagoon city where unsuspecting tourists risk being ripped off; stories of visitors being hit by unexpectedly high bills are relatively common in all the big cities.

Some of the things to be aware of are a 'coperto' (cover charge), which is typically around €1-3 per person but might be inflated, and only written on the menu in small print, in some eateries, and an extra charge for sitting down at a table (rather than having a coffee at the bar) or for sitting at an outdoor table.

In 2013, when a group of British tourists in Rome were charged €64 for four ice creams, authorities were so embarrassed by the subsequent uproar that they were invited back to the city to experience the best of Italian hospitality.

READ ALSO: How to avoid getting ripped off in Rome

 

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OPINION & ANALYSIS

TRAVEL: How to spot Italy’s ‘fake authentic’ tourist villages

Ever visited a picture-perfect Italian village that felt too idyllic to be real? There's a reason for that, says reporter Silvia Marchetti.

TRAVEL: How to spot Italy’s ‘fake authentic’ tourist villages

Italy’s many beautifully authentic, ancient villages are a major reason why foreigners flock here, fall in love with the lifestyle, and often settle down for good. 

But in some places, that ‘dolce vita’ feel can be so well-fabricated that it is just fake.

It might have happened to you that while visiting an apparently idyllic borgo, or village, you felt there was something totally off with it; be it the neat windows, the empty, shuttered houses, the lack of locals around. Maybe it was so picture-perfect it seemed unreal.

There are places that have been totally restyled and hence lost their soul, and are just mere tourist postcards that contribute to distorting the real image of Italy abroad. 

They appear to be medieval, but even if they do date back centuries they’ve been given such a thorough makeover that everything is tidy and shiny, giving you the impression of being on a movie set.

MAP: The ‘best’ Italian villages to visit this year

I’ve visited some of these villages, and what hit me was the attempt to recreate that ancient vibe just to fool visitors – while at the same time destroying what Italy’s authentic villages are all about.

Most have been elegantly restyled. This is positive given they might have otherwise ended up in the grave as ghost hamlets, but the extreme ‘maquillage’ has killed the original spirit of the place.

The ancient village of Castelfalfi, in Tuscany, dates back to pre-Roman, Etruscan times and is – was – a jewel. Following massive real estate investments it has turned into a luxury retreat for wealthy foreigners looking to bask under the Tuscan sun. 

Pretty as a picture – but where is everyone? Castelfalfi, Tuscany. Photo: Silvia Marchetti

During winter everything is shut, boutiques sell modern things and signs are written in English. The vast estate, formerly belonging to aristocrats, has been transformed into a huge golf club, and local residents are nowhere to be seen. There’s even a high-end restaurant in the castle tower for lavish meals. But no matter how beautiful it is, it gave me a feeling of sadness and emptiness.

I think places like this feed and recreate that stereotypical idea of a typical rural Italian setting, of elegant mansions with pools, ceramic boutiques and flower shops.

Nearby the village of Certaldo di Castro is another example of a fake old-style spot. It is indeed medieval and is famous for being the hometown of Italian poet Boccaccio: his museum-house is a must-see and the main highlight. You get to admire his room, bed, slippers and nightgown – that’s why I visited.

But other than that, it seems like the whole village has been rebuilt solely on Boccaccio’s legacy – there are just a few bars, restaurants, and B&Bs. No real village buzz, no elders sitting on benches. Last time I went, and it was during Christmas, most places were closed and I ended up eating a panino. 

The reddish roads and brick tile roofs have been perfectly fixed as per medieval style, and the chapels are also stunning. But life seems to have been frozen in time when Bocaccio inhabited it.

Certaldo di Castro has impressive medieval history but no village life. Photo: Silvia Marchetti

I recently drove hundreds of miles to explore what has been named as one of Italy’s most beautiful towns, Greccio. I found a ghost town.

It was perfectly renovated, but all shutters were down and not one single resident could be spotted. There were just holidaymakers having picnics on benches.

The streets were super clean. The stone walls were covered in paintings by local artists, hailing peace and friendship among countries; images that have nothing to do with the town’s old roots, nor character.

I must say it was a real disappointment. It surely is one of those places that come to life on weekends or during summer, when people visit. It is not ‘vissuto‘, as Italians would say, meaning it is not ‘lived’.

READ ALSO: Ten must-see places within reach of Rome

In the Tiber valley, the Calcata hamlet is a top destination for Romans looking for a weekend escape. The village is aesthetically charming, shaped like a giant mushroom jutting out of a deep green chasm. It’s perched on a reddish-brown hilltop overlooking a pristine river, with cave houses, moss-covered cobbled alleys, tunnels and wall openings overlooking a thick jungle-like canyon. 

But the original residents no longer live there and it’s become a ghetto of hippies and artists who each weekend come to turn it into an Italian-style Halloween village. Witchy objects, pumpkins and puppets are everywhere, while souvenir shops and boutiques sell weird, spooky amulets. Benches and doors are painted in bright colors and restaurants prepare exotic dishes.

This has killed the original old vibe, and though I love the scenery, I dislike the ambiance and village decor, which has nothing to do with its history.

Calcata is very similar to Civita di Bagnoregio, also in the Lazio region, dubbed the ‘dying city’ as soil erosion could make it crumble any day. 

Civita is world-famous for its dramatic scenery: sitting on a rock surrounded by a precipice, one single narrow bridge connects it to the mainland. I visited it several times: ten years ago it was lively. 

Two years ago, it was Easter, and I found a dead city. Just three locals going up and down the bridge, and a colony of hungry cats. It’s just luxury expensive B&B’s, taverns, souvenir boutiques and spots for selfie addicts. Artists and VIPs use it as their lair, yet despite its breathtaking beauty there’s really not much left.

I stayed the night once and ended up taking the car and driving to the nearest town for a slice of pizza for dinner because I couldn’t find an open trattoria.

If you can’t find so much as a single tavern open, no matter which day you visit, and if you don’t overhear some chit-chat among local grannies or some gossip at the bar, then you’ve likely landed in a ‘fake-authentic’ Italian borgo: perfect but unreal.

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