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Retirement in Italy For Members

'The visa process was painful': How easy is it to move to Italy for retirement?

Jessica Lionnel
Jessica Lionnel - [email protected]
'The visa process was painful': How easy is it to move to Italy for retirement?
Move to Italy for retirement and live happily ever after - but first, there's some paperwork to deal with. Photo by Harli Marten on Unsplash

Spending retirement in Italy is a dream for many, but what are the potential obstacles you should be aware of when planning your move? The Local's readers share their experiences and advice.

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Moreish food, a mild climate and a multitude of art and history are just a few of the reasons people choose to retire to Italy. Plus, there's the relatively low cost of living and potential tax breaks retirees can benefit from.

But some who have made the move to Italy for retirement tell The Local it hasn't all been smooth sailing, particularly for those coming from outside the European Union.

READ MORE: Five big reasons people choose to retire to Italy

When we asked in The Local's Living in Italy Facebook group for readers' experiences, we had an overwhelming response from retirees who told us that bureaucratic issues and other practical hurdles had made things less than straightforward in their experience.

Steve Knowles, a British citizen residing in Imola, Emilia-Romagna, said the visa process almost prevented his move to Italy. 

The visa process was quite painful,” he told us. “Getting an appointment in the UK at [visa application portal] VFS Global took ages because their website was faulty which took a whole month to be fixed, so we lost time.”

Steve applied for an elective residency visa, which is the Italian visa most aspiring international retirees will need to get, after the Brexit transition period.

He tells us everything was time-consuming, especially as he had to provide two copies of relevant documents as he applied as part of a couple.

“Our first application was rejected due to issues over our 'passive income'. This, in my opinion, was due to a lack of common sense on the part of the consulate,” Steve continues. 

READ ALSO: Retirement in Italy: What you need to know about visas and residency

Luckily for him, he was granted another appointment three months later and got his visa issued - but more of Italy’s long-winded bureaucratic processes awaited him when he arrived.

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“When we got here, we had the joys of Italian bureaucracy to navigate with regards to getting a permesso di soggiorno. We now have this and our identification cards, but getting the permesso di soggiorno renewed is an annual joy,” he writes sarcastically.

Mary Hanson, a United States citizen living in Italy, also ran into visa-related issues. 

“The consulate can deny any visa application with no further indication of why or how to correct errors,” she says.

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She applied for her elective residency visa three times before getting it accepted. She cites an unsuitable letter of hospitality and financial documents in the improper format being the reasons why her first two attempts were rejected. 

“All decisions are at the discretion of the consulate and each one has different interpretations,” she adds.    

“It's frustrating. I am going to bet that every single US expat will report similar experiences although we have now formed large enough communities on social media to help each other through that particular version of bureaucracy hell.”

Better weather is one of the major draws of a new life in Italy. (Photo by LOIC VENANCE / AFP)

She concludes that nowadays consulates seem to be friendlier than they were five years ago when she applied. 

“They’re simply kindergarten compared to the Questura.”

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Carl Lobitz, a US national resident in Chieti, commented he had to deal with the Texas state bureaucracy before getting his visa, because the Italian consulate requested his place of birth on his marriage certificate.

Mark Hinshaw, a retired architect also from the States and resident in Marche, said it took him four months to collect all the documents required by the consulate for the elective residency visa and then another three months to receive it.

It was nothing compared to the insanity of the bureaucratic complexity, confusion, and craziness here,” he writes. 

READ ALSO: How and why Italy’s elective residency visa rules are getting stricter

“I tell newcomers they must learn to laugh. Laugh a lot. After you finish crying of course.”

British citizen Margaret Tyler arrived in Italy before Brexit and has a half-Italian spouse, so visas were not the issue. The problem for her is the lack of financial clarity.

“The tax we have to pay is very high, more than the UK. It seems the government will tax anything and everything. There is no complaint process if you receive bad service which does happen,” she says. 

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“Nothing is properly explained and if you are given the wrong information and if you make a mistake it’s your fault.

"Sometimes I feel we are taken advantage of because we are not Italian, which is sad.”

As well as bureaucracy, assimilating into another community and culture was another common theme.

READ ALSO: Five essential things you need to do when you move to Italy

Briton Linda Baker, an artist retired in Veneto, writes: “Probably the most important thing I have learnt is that a community is needed if you are to survive, at least at the outset to cushion the difficulties. To be honest it was terrifying in the beginning.”

Mary Hanson added that the pandemic hindered her chances of assimilation. 

Originally we were ‘the Americans’ but by the time we crawled out from under our masks? The ship had sailed,” she says.

Dual Italian-American citizen Scott Fabbri said it’s the everyday tasks which were difficult at first, such as getting keys cut or finding an electrician.

However, all of the respondents, when asked, were more than content with the decision to retire in Italy, with the majority saying they would never return home. Perhaps, in all the bureaucratic confusion, there’s a silver lining after all.

Have you moved to Italy for retirement or are you in the process of doing so? Please share your thoughts in the comments section below.

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Join the conversation in our comments section below. Share your own views and experience and if you have a question or suggestion for our journalists then email us at [email protected].
Please keep comments civil, constructive and on topic – and make sure to read our terms of use before getting involved.

Please log in to leave a comment.

Norma R Williams 2024/05/06 05:47
About 30 years ago, when my husband was 57 and I was 46, we moved to Italy permanently. We had retired early from the academic life. By accident we fell into a holiday rental business, starting with renting out part of our house that was in a hill top village in Umbria. We had been part of a house swopping scheme but someone begged us to rent to them because their daughter was due to perform at the Spoleto Festival of 2 Worlds and all the usual holiday venues were fully booked. We ignored all bureaucracy because it all seemed like double Dutch. In those days, ignorance was bliss. It was when we started to grow our business that it became obvious that we must join the system. We employed a commercialista. We still don’t understand the bureaucracy, especially the part whereby you can be charged twice for refuse collection and other bills if your passport is in your maiden name and your codice fiscale is in your married name. That took a few years to resolve. The upshot after 30 years of a tumultuous life in Italy is we are very much part of our local community. We know everyone in this ancient city that predates Rome. And they know us. It’s been a huge privilege to have been accepted by locals whose families go back to the beginning of time. We are very happy here. We love the Italian culture. Locals are quick to offer support at times of need. Laurie is estranged from his children (through no fault of his own) and I have no blood family left alive. The Spoleto community is our family, amongst which are a handful of our special friends. We tend not to socialize with ex pats because we have more in common with our Italian friends. Our Italian is quite poor so we tend to speak in both languages with our friends. We’d prefer to be more competent in the language but unless you’re really prepared to study, it ain’t going to happen. If we had our time again, would we have done anything differently? No! There have been many ups and downs living in Italy. But the plusses have always far outweighed the minuses. Our advice to anyone contemplating a permanent move to Italy is don’t try to do anything bureaucratic yourself. Always pay a local professional expert to resolve problems for you. More importantly, always be respectful to local people, whether they are the road sweeper or the mayor because most likely they are brothers! In Italy, “knowing” someone is what oils the wheels. And in an Italian culture, there is no hierarchy of respect viz a viz status. Everyone has status. And in small Italian cities, everyone knows someone who can be useful. Of course, if you have a title, you are treated with a greater reverence….. “ingegnere”, advocato”, “dotore”. But this is superficial showmanship. The bottom line is that ALL work has dignity for an Italian.. Whatever job you do commands respect, with one exception, that of the politician!! The most surprising thing I learnt about the Italian is how they are so simultaneously both the giver and the taker. You are expected to help out your friends using all means at your disposal. At the same time, you expect to be helped in exactly the same way. Today, an Italian may ask a favour of you in an expectant way. Tomorrow, that same Italian will reciprocate in kind. But not because you did him a favour. This is simply the way it is. Never forget that the Italian culture is more than just good food, ritualistic behaviours, (the passegiata will take place even if it’s snowing!), great weather and fashion to die for. It’s fundamentally a culture of give and take. So, when moving to Italy, be prepared to give of yourself in every way. And you will reap the benefits in shed loads!
Ray Harris 2024/05/05 20:48
Greetings! My wife and I moved to Pisa Italy in 2021 during the pandemic but even though we had some challenges, thank God he put the right people in our lives. I am a American and my wife is German but I am not new to Europe. Here are some good advice for anyone who wants to move to Italy and retire. Make sure you do a lot of planning and research on where you would like to live. Next, please try to learn a little Italian! Next, please be patience and remember that you are a guest. Even though the first time, my residency permit took a little longer, I was able to apply for my second one by myself. We have managed with the help of some good people to get our Italian IDs, driving license, Tax ID and other documents. We are able to travel back to the United States and throughout Europe with no problems. Please don’t get me wrong, we had our moments when something’s seemed to stand still but if I had to do it again, I would still move to Italy! I hope that this help someone! “The little American’s writer from Pisa Foundation “
Gregory P. Hopkins 2024/05/02 20:56
The hassles around almost business transactions seem to have gotten much worse in the last two years. Getting a Tessera Sanitaria this year was more than twice the cost and two months of chaos. We go to the questura in June--11 months after submitting our packet. The delays and unnecessary hoops to jump through gets wearing and starts to tarnish the wonder of being in Italy.

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